Truffle of Alba

Uova tartofato, carpacio di carne, Tajarin all” albese – well we are neither narrating the names of AC Milan players nor the names of 70’s Italian movies, these are in fact few of the exotic delicacies made out of truffles. If we now translate the dishes it would actually be preparation of black truffle with marsala and egg, sliced beef with truffles of Alba and home made noodles with truffles of Alba.

Truffles of Alba the rarest and the costliest of all truffles ( black truffle of Norcia, Scorzone, Bianchetto, and musk truffle) though sound similar to “mayor of casterbridge” is not a character but much larger than its size, it has got its identity and popularity spread across the globe in the palate of food connoisseurs and gastronomical experts. Before we go into this wonderful, mouth watering, exciting and mystic tour of truffle let me introduce the mushroom from heaven to the readers.

Truffle of Alba is baptized with the name from the ancient city of Alba Pompeia, which was also the birthplace of roman emperor Pertinax. It is a globular shaped fruit of the earth, which has many depressions on the rind or “peridium” to make it irregular. The outer smooth and velvety surface has color varying from pale ochre to dark cream to greenish, the inner flesh or “gleba” is unmistakable and is white or greyish yellow with thin white veins. Scientifically it is known as tuber magnatum pico and is a subterranean fungus that co-exists in a symbiotic relation with the roots of certain particular trees. The roots of lime, poplar, oak and willow are the favorites of this fungus.

As most of the beautiful, elegant, exotic and rare things in this world truffle of Alba also have its own unique conditions for its growth and birth. Geographically found in Piedmont of Italy it is located in Monferrato, langhe, Roero and partly in the hills of Turin. Apart from it can be also traced in lesser proportion and negotiable quality in the area of Marches, Umbria, Tuscany and Romagne. Not exception to the rule truffles also requires delicate and typical soil and climatic condition for attaining its beautiful youth. The observed conditions indicate that the soil must be soft and humid for most of the year with well ventilation and rich calcium content. But these are mere scientific fact which when created by men artificially couldn’t give the same result. Therefore the production of truffle still remains a mystery to mankind and the credit can solely be given to the nature for producing these jewels of the earth.

The specialty of the truffle in the palate is the aroma and the flavor it generate from its own which is very fragile and can casts its spell to the person who is honored to have this wonderful delight. The flavor of the truffle largely depends on the tree depending on which it grows. For example truffle growing near the oak tree will have a penetrating odor compared to the lighter fragrance of those, which grows near a lime tree.

Truffles’ being one of the rarest treasures needs a real hunt before it delights the fortunate few. The “tartufaio” or the “trifolao” as the truffle hunters are traditionally known must have an identity document of permit before he goes in search of the treasure. The tools require for this operation are also unique which consist of a pair of tough mud proof boots, a stick, a small spade, a jacket with lots of deep pockets and a dog of good breed with extremely sensitive nose and trained to recognize the intense aroma and spot the point. Sometimes female pigs are also used as they are sexually aroused by the truffle’s aroma. Truffles are gathered from September to December but by the myth of tartufaio they only get ripe at the third moon after rain starting from September. It is always hunted at the set off of the twilight primarily to avoid revealing the places to the competitors, as the competition is immense.

Truffles gathered after much labor and pain unfortunately can be preserved for a limited time. Preferably to be consumed fresh it can however be preserved in refrigerator for a week but better to be wrapped in a blotting paper without washing and then putting it in a hermatic jar, not to forget to change the paper once a day. One should not store truffles near to strong smelling foods like cheese or egg. Truffle of Alba is preferred not to be cooked rather adding them to the dish at the end of the cooking.

One of the highest expressions in the Italian cuisine truffles of Alba are known for their enticing, intense and aphrodisiac scents and flavors and long being appreciated by the Sumerians, Greek and Romans. Its glory can be felt by the facts that Pope Gregory IV boosted himself with a meal of truffle before the battle of Saracens and Lord Byron used to keep truffle in his desk to stimulate imagination.

Now if you are impatient to experience this exotic and ethnic delicacy you can start your journey from the two weeks October truffle festivals in Alba or visit the national truffle museum, not to mention to taste the precious fruit of the earth – the truffle of Alba. So bon appetite.