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| Ultimate Italy / Piazzas
Italy / Piazza di Spagna |
| Piazza di Spagna |
Elegant
and scenic, the Piazza di Spagna provides a welcome point of encounter
at the centre of Rome. Its peculiar fascination is derived from
a combination of colour, the 18th century buildings that surround
it, the flowers that adorn the Spanish Steps, and the animated and
cosmopolitan atmosphere that pervades it. It is the only place where
three distinct elements of urban décor, a fountain, a flight
of steps and a church, have become a monument in its own right,
as well as a scenic wonder. This piazza has been a destination of
foreigners to Rome for centuries where most came as pilgrims and
arrived in the north part of the city before finding lodgings. From
this piazza fan out such prestigious streets as the Via Margutta,
famous for the many painters who live and display their works there;
the Via del Babuino, with its many antique shops; the Via Condotti,
with it sophisticated boutiques and celebrated Caffé Greco,
dating back to the 18th century, a historic place of rendezvous
of great Italian and foreign artists; the Via Borgognona, which
is also flanked fashionable boutiques and couturiers; and the lively
Via Fratina.
Formed from two sharp triangles, the piazza is such a strange shape
that it's hard to call it a "square". In fact, until a
few centuries ago only the southern half was called Piazza di Spagna
(after the Spanish embassy to the Holy See), the northern half was
called Piazza di Francia (after the French embassy). |
| The Church
of Trinità Dei Monti |
The
Trinità dei Monti is a beautiful French church located on
a hill overlooking the small piazza della Trinità dei Monti.
From this square, you have a nice view of Rome.
At the end of the 15th century, only a small chapel existed on
the hill. It was built near the monastery founded by St. Francis
di Paola in 1493. St. Francis was a hermit from Calabria and was
sent by the Pope to Paris to minister to king Louis XI who was seriously
ill. At the king's death, his son Charles VIII became his patron
and bought him the vast vineyard in Rome where he founded a monastery
dedicated to the Minimi Friars. In 1495, French King Louis XII commissioned
the erection of a new church, replacing the chapel. Construction
started in 1502 and dragged on for decades. It was only consecrated
in 1585 by Pope Sistus V who considered it the cornerstone for his
ambitious plans of urban development for the city. Its elevated
position and the strong upward thrust of its twin bell-towers make
it one of the most suggestive landmarks in Rome. The church contains
a great number of paintings as well as many private chapels acquired
by patrician families like the Orsini, the Altoviti and others.
At the end of the XVI century after the Spanish Embassy had established
itself in a magnificent palace on the square, a wealthy prelate
had another grand residence built there, which he subsequently donated
(in 1612) to the influential Jesuit Congregation of the Propaganda
Fide.
The gothic church with a renaissance façade has two bell-towers.
Inside, several paintings decorate the different chapels. Among
them are two works by Daniele da Volterra, a pupil of Michelangelo.
Its location on top of the Spanish Steps and the rosy color make
the Trinità dei Monti a well-known landmark in Rome. |
| Scalinata
Della Trinita' Dei Monti or the spanish steps |
This
French connection tells part of the story of the piazza, for during
the time of Louis XIV of France, his advisor, Cardinal Mazarin,
proposed a plan to build a monumental staircase up to the church
of Trinita' de' Monti which featured an equestrian statue of the
French king. The plan was obviously not popular with the papacy
and it was shelved for a hundred years until finally built without
the statue.
“The Spanish Stairs were built to unite Via del Babuino (the
easternmost of the three main arteries radiating into the city from
the Piazza del Popolo) with Via Felice, the first great street planned
by Sixtus V (1585). Their junction is crossed at an approximately
right angle by Via Condotti, which defines the direction toward
St. Peter's and the Vatican. Several projects were made between
1717 and 1720, also by Alessandro Specchi, whose ideas were later
assimilated by the chosen architect of the Stairs, Francesco de
Sanctis. The very rich and varied solution ultimately employed by
De Sanctis (1723-26) is based on a simple doubling in depth of the
central theme from the Ripetta: a protruding volume flanked by convex
stairs and a straight flight in front. The upper unit presents the
theme in its basic form; the lower constitutes an articulate and
lively variation."
The Spanish Steps are a majestic series of three flights of steps
that lead up to the impressive double-bell towered church (before
which stands an obelisk). This complex can best be seen from far
down Via dei Condotti. In early summer they are sometimes completely
covered with flowers of many colours making a delightful sight.
In summer the myriad of tourists who come here often just sit on
the steps to soak in the atmosphere and watch the street sellers
and the caricature artists who work at the foot of the steps plying
their skills. |
| Fontana
Della Barcaccia |
An
intriguing fountain sits not far from the bottom of the steps that
always has people around it puzzling over its peculiarities. This
is la Fontana della Barcaccia which is set very low, almost at street
level, in order to function with the low water pressure that arrives
there. By why a fountain in the shape of a small boat? In 1588 Rome
suffered one of its not infrequent inundations when the Tevere could
no longer hold all the water that washed down the river. It was
devastating and many people lost their homes. When the waters subsided
there was left a small flat-bottomed boat in the mud (which had
been used to rescue people and move possessions), a symbol of the
efforts to survive the floods. It was this that inspired Pietro
Bernini, and his son Gian Lorenzo, to construct this wonderful fountain.
The fountain, commissioned by Pope Urhan VIII (Barberini), was
built between 1627 and 1629. In this period, while the French and
the Spaniards, as lords of Trinità dei Monti vied with each
other for supremacy in the hope of gaining more territorial prestige,
interest in this square, that had the fame of being a privileged
enclave, began to attract numerous foreigners to Rome. Many taverns,
inns, and cafes were opened, and between the seventeenth and nineteenth
centuries, business and commercial activities began to concentrate
there as well. Towards the middle of the sixteenth century the French
began to plan a flight of steps to connect the square to their church
on the hill above, but it was only in 1723 that Pope Innocent XIII
decided to name Francesco de Sanctis, whom the French approved of,
as the executor of the famous steps. This beautiful stairway gave
the square its graceful and elegant seventeenth century touch that
was the reason for its popularity during the Romantic and the Art
Nouveau periods. These steps have a powerful scenic, almost theatrical
effect on the square, which makes them an ideal stage for the annual
fashion parade "Donna sotto le Stelle" when the most important
Italian and international stylists present their collections. |
| The Obelisk |
In
the southern part of the piazza there is an obelisk that was erected
in 1856 to commemorate the Catholic dogma of the Immaculate Conception
proclaimed by Pius IX. The column, found under a monastery in 1777,
is topped by a statue of the Virgin Mary, and rests on a base that
features statues of the prophets Moses, David, Isaiah and Ezekiel.
The pope comes here every year on December 8th to celebrate the
Immaculate Conception. The obelisk just in front of the church was
originally located in the Gardens of Sallust. In 1788 it was moved
to its current location on request of pope Pius VI. The hieroglyphs
were copied from the obelisk on the Piazza del Popolo.
The column stands in front of the Palazzo di Propaganda Fide which
features a facade that faces the piazza by Bernini and, down the
street to the right, another marvelous facade designed (1662) by
Francesco Borromini that displays those elements consistently employed
by Borromini to maintain fluidity of his buildings: where one is
used to straight walls he uses gentle curves to break the line,
windows of varying shapes, pilasters to break up the length. This
is a narrow street and walking along it will bring out the beauty
of Borromini's work.
Also at this end of the piazza is a very discretely decorated MacDonald's,
so discrete that if it weren't for the droves of people who go there
you would never notice this little corner of America! When the concession
first started up there was quite a reaction from certain elements
of the Roman community, who demonstrated outside giving away free
plates of pasta. It's now an integral part of the scene, as are
numerous other concessions. |
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