On the south side of Monte Argentario is Porto Ercole. It is an attractive old quarter and has a fishing-village atmosphere. Porto Ercole has several boating marinas and has long been a sailors' town. It is home to no less than three forts, the most interesting of which is Fort Stella. Named for its shape, it was built in the form of a star. One of its courtyards is a hexagon. Though founded by the Romans, Porto Ercole’s chief historical monuments are two Spanish fortresses, facing each other across the harbour. At the entrance to the old town, a plaque on the stone gate commemorates the painter Caravaggio, who in 1610 keeled over with sunstroke on a beach nearby and died of a fever; he was buried in the parish church of Sant'Erasmo. From the village, you can easily walk across the Tombolo di Feniglia, which is barred to traffic and is a prime spot for birdwatching over the lagoon.

The town of Porto Ercole is surrounded by the remains of a mighty stone fortress. Much of the wall facing the Tyrrhenian Sea remains sufficiently intact and you can walk its length while standing tall above the ocean. The wall is narrow and uneven but if you're up to the challenge, it's worth it. The sea is so beautiful and the palm trees so grand, you can forget to look where you're going. So please be careful!

After facing down the dangers on the fortress wall, you can go outside the walls on the other side of town and grab yourself a delicious gelato. Several kiosks are located at the edge of a park serving sweets and espresso. During the summer, these little cafes continue serving well into the night, so you can indulge yourself on the way home from a movie, dancing or a local concert. Finest restaurant for fish and seafood is the classy Gambero Rosso, Lungomare Andrea Doria (tel 0564 832 650; closed Wed).