Favignana Island

What do butterflies, goats, prevailing winds and tuna have in common? A Mediterranean island.

Sometimes referred to as La Farfalla or the butterfly because it is shaped like one, albeit with asymmetrical wings, Favignana Island is a beauty spot on the map of Italy.

Favignana is the largest of the islands in the Aegadian archipelago. Chief among the others are Levanzo, Marettimo, Formica and Maraone. Favignana derives its present name from the Favonio, as the prevailing spring winds of the region are known. But it was originally called Egusa, meaning “full of goats”. And now its economy is inextricably bound up with the tuna that abounds in the seas all around.

The two wings of the ‘butterfly’ that make up Favignana are different not only in shape and size, but also in physical features. While the eastern half is more or less flat land, the western one comprises gently rising hills, the largest of which is Montana Santa Caterina.

The Saracens had a lookout tower here, which the Normans turned into a Fort which takes its name from the highest peak of the island. It also served a term as a prison under the Bourbons before passing into the hands of the Military, who hold it still.

The Fort watches over the main town of the archipelago, Favignana città. It is built around a small port set in a large bay. Two piazzas, the Piazza Europa and the Piazza Madrice, the twin epicenters of activity, are conveniently linked by the main street. Each evening, the townspeople promenade down the street, a ritual much enjoyed by everyone.

Beaches, bays, caves and all things connected with sun, sea and sand are Favignanna’s chief attractions. It is no surprise, then, that tourism is the other staple of the economy. Tourism propped up the declining fortunes of the islanders after factory fishing took the edge off the tuna industry. Just 18 km from Tarpani, where there is an international airport, it is also close to Sicily, and is thus easily accessible.

The Lido Burrone in the main town is the broadest beach, and there’s an hourly bus service which tourists find convenient.

Then there are the Cala Rossa and the Cala del Bue Marino which are rocky bays, riddled with a winding network of dark, exciting tunnels, a relic of the days when Tufa quarrying was one of the mainstays of the island’s economy. There’s history wound up in Cala Rossa too, for its name, meaning the Red Cove, refers to the Roman victory on the seas against the Carthaginians way back in 241 BC, when so many Phoenicians were washed ashore dead that the waters turned read. On the other wing are the bays of Cala Rotonda, Cala Grande and Punta Ferro.

Then there are the picturesque caves which dot the western slopes sliding gently to the sea. For the lover of beauty there is the Grotta Azzurra, which offers, as its name implies, a view of a spectacular shade of blue water. Those seeking a thrill will find the Grotta dei Sospiri much to their taste. The name means “Cave of Sighs, and, true it to its name, you can hear the most spine-chilling sighs and moans emanating from it –though you’ll have to wait till the sea is rough. For the romantically inclined, there is the Lovers’ Grotto, so called because of the two pillar-like rocks standing side-by-side at the back of the cave.

The Tufa quarrying has left the landscape looking as if some monster has taken huge bites from it. The hollows which resulted from the mining are, in the worst cases, used as rubbish dumps now, while the more environmentally conscious have turned a few into delightful sheltered gardens. Tufa mined here was taken to Sicily, and from there to Tunisia and Libya. The blocks provided employment and income to the islanders, but quarrying took a backseat and ultimately fizzled out, after tuna fishing became an established industry.

It is thanks to the Florio family that Favignana became an acknowledged centre of tuna fishing. The family turned its attention from wines to fish, and set up a large fisheries unit on the island. The unit has since been abandoned, but the mansion the Florio family built at the opposite end of the island still stands.

The complicated ritual of Mattanza, meaning massacare, a unique form of tuna fishing, takes place here in May, and is a must-see for those who have the stomach for blood sport. Favignana is one of the few places in the world where this technique for snaring blue-fin tuna, which originated in Arabia, is still employed.

Favignana can be easily reached by hydrofoil from Tarpani, and there is a regular ferry service as well. It makes an ideal day-trip destination, but it is good for longer visits too. There are several comfortable hotels or, for a more informal holiday, put up with families listed with the Pro Loco. For those wishing to be independent, there is a campsite at hand.

To explore the island, use cycles or mopeds, they’re readily available and easy to use on the gentle terrain. A great way of getting around at your own pace.

For scuba diving and snorkeling enthusiasts, this is an ideal place to be. The sea off Punta Marsala, Punta Fanfalo and Punta Ferro, Secca del Toro and the submerged cave between Cala Rotonda and Scoglio Corrente offer some breathtaking underwater sights.

Don’t miss a meal at the Egadi restaurant, where the delicacies are made of the island’s specialties -- tuna and swordfish. Other riches from the sea around Favignana to gladden the palate are red lobsters and octopus.

When you’ve had your fill of sun and sea, look for souvenirs that will tickle your taste buds. Dried tuna roe and smoked tuna and swordfish, locally called bottarga and bresaola respectively, can be bought on the island to take home with you and evoke special memories of the ‘butterfly island’