“Romeo! Romeo! Wherefore art thou Romeo?”

Perhaps the most famous line from the most famous love story in the English Language. But amidst the passion, the true love and the heart wrenching tragedy one seldom pays any attention to the city where the drama unfolds.

For those of you who don’t know, it’s Verona… Verona… “so rich in the associations of real history, has even a greatercharm for those who would live in the poetry of the past” [said one of the Bard’s editors of a volume of his plays.]

Although we don’t know if a Romeo or a Juliet ever existed, but the remains of Verona’s glorious past are much in evidence today. The city boasts of a collection Roman antiquity, which is unequaled north of Rome.

Situated 114km (71 miles) west of Venice and 502km (311 miles) northwest of Rome, Verona, in its medieval golden age under the despotic Scaligeri princes reached the pinnacle of its influence and prestige, developing into a town that, even today, is among the greatest cities of Italy. The best-known member of the ruling Della Scala family, Cangrande I, was a patron of Dante. His sway over Verona has often been compared to that of Lorenzo the Magnificent over Florence.

Despite the day-trippers, most of the people walking the streets of Verona are actually residents and not visitors. This is where Verona stands in contrast to Venice, even though both are tourist towns, which could be a refreshing change for travellers. Nonetheless, for a city that hit its peak in the 1st century A.D., I’d say Verona is doing admirably well. Travel tip: stick to the inner core and not the newer sections, which are ruined by industry and tacky urban development.

As mentioned earlier, nothing in Verona has the ostentatious touristy feel. Nothing is done just for tourism’s sake. Opera festivals on a scale more human and accessible than those in cities such as Milan are presented here annually between July and August. The setting is the ancient Arena di Verona, a site that's grand enough to accommodate as many elephants as might be needed for a performance of Aïda. Schedules change every year, so if you don’t want to miss it, make sure you find out before you get there. A personal visit isn't necessary, and the office can mail vouchers or fax a confirmation to allow you to pick up the tickets half an hour before curtain call. Prices of tickets vary with view lines and whatever is being staged, but usually they are 18€ to 154€.

Teatro Romano is known for its Shakespeare Festival from June through August. In recent years, it has included a week of performances in English by the Royal Shakespeare Company. Festival performances begin in late May and June with jazz concerts. In July and August, there are also a number of ballets and modern dance performances.

The grande dame of local cafe society is the Antico Caffè Dante in the beautiful Piazza dei Signori. This is Verona’s oldest café and inside the setting is rather formal and meals are pricey; so you might want to instead snag an outdoor table, where you can soak in the million-dollar view of one of Verona's loveliest ancient squares.

Love to drink? Then a visit to the Bottenga del Vino is a must. Once you enter you will think you've died and gone to heaven as they have an unmatched 80,000-bottle selection. Located on Via Scudo di Francia 3, this atmospheric bottega first opened in 1890, and the old-timers who spend hours in animated conversation seem to have been here ever since.

The atmosphere and conviviality are reason enough to come by for a tipple at the well-known bar, where five dozen wines are available by the glass. Regulars, journalists, and local merchants often fill the few wooden tables at mealtimes, ordering simple and affordable but excellent dishes, such as homemade risottos.

After a good meal at the Bottenga del Vino put on your dancing shoes and head for Disco Berfis Club on Via Lussemburgo 1, or Bar/Disco Tribu on Via Calderara 17, where the rhythms echo what's being broadcast in New York and Milan.

The byword for shopping in Verona is elegance, and shops feature the fashions being touted in Milan and Rome. Don't look for touristy products or rustic crafts and souvenirs; instead, look for more upscale versions of all-Italian fashion and accessories. A worthwhile shop for men is Class Uomo on Via San Rocchetto 13B, and, for both men and women, there's the classic Armani on Via Cappello 25.

You'll find a dense concentration of vendors selling antiques or old bric-a-brac in the streets around Sant'Anastasia, or head to Piazza delle Erbe for a more or less constant roster of merchants in flea market-style kiosks selling dusty, and often junkie, collectibles of yesteryear, along with aromatic herbs, fruits, and vegetables.