Sicily is infamous for its underworld activity. Sicilians don’t call it the Mafia but call it Cosa Nostra roughly meaning ‘this thing we have’. It isn’t clear when it actually originated but is largely considered to having been started during the Bourbon rule when landowners hired thugs to threaten or beat up peasants. They mode of work was almost like a government with a wide network of people working for them across the island of Sicily. Soon their operations included the trafficking of illegal goods and drugs.

In the 70s and 80s there was an internal war between the old and the new members of the Mafia. For the first time this tightly knit group broke the code of omertà and turned into snitches and double crossers. Many gruesome stories came to the public’s attention through confessions to policemen such as Gen. Alberto Dalla Chiesa (assassinated 1982) and later to magistrates like Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino (both killed in 1992). This resulted in hundreds of them being packed off to prisons and was the beginning of their downfall. Today they’ve almost completely lost their power except in few pockets in Palermo and in the provinces of Catania, Trapani, and Agrigento.

Since the 2000 United Nations conference there has been a further crackdown on underworld activity in Palermo and this has often been called a Palermo Renaissance. There a programmes held by civic groups and schools to help rehabilitate former members of the Mafia. As a mark of this regeneration a museum called the Museo Anti-Mafia was started. Make sure to visit it on Via Orfanotrofio 7.

There is also Central di Cultura Polivalente, at the village of Corleone outside Palermo. Take a SAIS bus to get here. Corleone, familiar to all Godfather fans, was the home of Salvatore Rina, the "boss of all bosses." He was Italy’s most wanted Mafia member who terrorized the region for 25 years. The museum contains photographs of Mafia atrocities. There is no admission fee, and the museum remains open between Tuesday and Sunday from 9am to 7:30pm, closing for lunch between 1pm and 3:30pm.

Palermo doesn’t have much of a nightlife. During summer people prefer to cool themselves on the waterfront to any other activity. In the recent years many bars and taverns have sprung up but they aren’t very popular as people are still afraid to go out after it get dark. This is true especially in the La Kalsa area.

There are quite a few popular bars in the medieval quarter but most people prefer to do their drinking in the bars of big hotels. Other safe areas to party are Piazza Castelnuovo, Piazza Verdi and Via Principe di Belmonte. If you love music get your copy of Palermo & Provincia Live from the tourist office. This will give you a full schedule of cafes that have live musical performances.

If you want to go clubbing the most popular dance club is Candelai in northern Palermo. They charge a 4.50€ cover and play mainly rock music. It is open only Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 8pm onwards.

If you are a culture vulture you will have a handful of operas and ballets to choose from between January and June. Most performances are held at Teatro Massimo, which lies across the Museo Archeologico. It claims to have the largest indoor stage in Europe after the Paris Opera House. The climactic opera scene from Francis Ford Coppola’s movie The Godfather: Part III was shot here.

The neoclassical Teatro Massimo was built between 1875 and 1897. A major renovation project was undertaken to celebrate its centenary in 1997. The Festival di Verdura is the biggest event here and is held from late June to mid-August. Many world-renowned artists perform here each year. You ticket cost would depend on the event and on your choice of seat. It will cost roughly between 11€ and 73€.

Palermo is a shopper’s haven and is full of colour and life. A visit to the shopping districts will give you a true feeling of local life.

You will find everything here – from arts and crafts to top end fashion labels, from specially designed jewellery to exquisite ceramics. The best place to shop is on Via della Libertà, on northern side of the medieval quarter. Shops are open from Monday to Friday from 9 am to 7:30 pm, closing for lunch between 1 pm and 3:30 pm. On Saturdays it is open from 9 am till 8 pm closing for lunch between 1 pm and 4 pm.

La Vucciria is the most famous and also the best market area of Palermo. Vucciria translates to hubbub or voices and a visit here is a must. It is situated on the narrow streets emerging from Piazza San Domenico off Via Roma and between Corso Vittorio Emanuele and the San Domenico Church. You’ll also find fresh fish and meat along with locally grown vegetables and fruits.

Although La Kalsa is popular among the tourist circles it is dangerous as it is fascinating. The best time to visit it is during the day but make sure you’re not on your own. It is a good idea to leave your valuables locked in your hotel safe and carry only a necessary amount of money. Also, make sure you keep your wallet safe.

After the turn of the new millennium lots of bars and taverns have opened in this district. With the strict check on the Mafia foreigners and local tourists now venture onto the streets of La Kalsa at night. If you choose to do so as well make sure you are careful and as far as possible try and travel by taxis. Make sure you aren’t alone as although there is no threat to your life you might be mugged by the Mafia rejects!