
Legend, history, beauty, culture, castles, churches, stunning views and the latest in science and technology- all this and more is at your disposal when you travel to and spend some time at the beautiful city of Erice in Sicily. Perched just above seven hundred and fifty metres above sea level on Mountain Erice in Sicily; Erice is a charming town in the province of Trapani. Eryx or Erice, as it is more commonly referred to, was a religious centre where the Phoenicians worshipped Astarte, the Greeks worshipped Aphrodite and the Romans worshipped Venus. Today Christians still practice their faith and revere the Virgin Mary in the main church Chiesa Matrice which is dedicated to her.
How to get there
Erice is easily accessible by different modes of transport-simple as well as exciting ones. You can reach Erice from the two major cities of Trapani and Palermo. You can reach Trapani and Palermo by air as the airports in both the cities are connected to all the major European cities. Palermo is a port so you can reach Palermo by ship as well.
From Trapani there are regular buses to Erice. If you decide to drive down by car it take about it takes about an hour’s journey from Palermo and about thirty five minutes from Trapani.
However the most exciting and thrilling way to reach Erice is by Funivia or cable car. You can travel via the station in the Casa Santa valley. The cable car links Trapani to Erice through a picturesque and exciting ride of 3099m. Each individual motorized cable car can take eight passengers. A return trip can also be organized.
History
With its antecedents in the Middle Ages as well as a more ancient history dating back to the Phoenicians, the ancient town of Erice has changed its name through the ages but has maintained and absorbed the culture of its various ancient rulers including the Phoenicians and the Carthagians as well as the later rulers including the Romans, the Greeks, the Arabs and the Normans.
This ancient town was called Eryx (meaning mountain) or Erice. Its name Erice has several legends regarding its origin depending on the writer. Virgil and other Latin poets attribute the name to its ancient mountain Eryx and also associate it with Athos, Aetna etc. On the summit of the mountain, there proudly stood an ancient temple of Venus or Aphrodite, founded by Aeneas. According to legend this is how Venus derived her surname name as many Latin writers refer to her as Venus Erycina.
Another legend, mainly attributed to the Greek historian Diodorus speaks of the town being named after Eryx the son of Aphrodite and Butes. Legend says that he invited Hercules to this ancient town in Sicily but was finally vanquished by him. Whatever the legend Erice is a historical town.
Erice was called Gebel Hamed by the Arabs and the Arabian influence is still a part of Erice especially its food. Erice was also invaded by the Normans who called it Monte San Guiliano. They built their famous Norman Castle amidst the ruins of the Venus Temple. In 1934 the town reclaimed its ancient name of Erice.
Places to visit
Triangular in shape and filled with cobbled and curving streets and arched passageways Erice is a tourist’s delight as you feel as if you have taken a step back in history. Although it is inhabited with modern people when the fog mists over the mountain it creates a surreal atmosphere transporting you in a trice to medieval times or even further back especially if you are visiting its ancient treasures and monuments. Ancient myth and history intermingle creating a mystery and unique not to be missed experience.
There are various attractions in the city of Erice. They include the following:
The Fortified Walls
The northern part of Erice you can find Elymian and Phoenician walls. These walls stand testimony to the various settlements that grew in and around Erice through the centuries.
Pepoli Castle
The Pepoli Castle dates from Saracen times. It is an ancient castle which has been restored and converted to a hotel. It offers spectacular views.
Castello de Venere or Venus Castle
As evident from its name the Castello de Venere or Venus Castle is built around the ancient Venus temple in Erice. The decaying twelfth century Norman walls with their weather beaten graying stone exist amidst the ancient ruins of the temple of Venus. This Norman Castle bears the Coat of Arms of Charles V of Spain.
Although the castle is in ruins it offers a glimpse of its rich past and breathtaking views. There are ruins of a Roman bath and well. Legend says that these were the private bath of Venus the Roman Goddess of Love and Beauty. Alternatively as you roam through the ruins of the castle you can see rusting iron shackles hinting of deep dark dungeons and whispering hidden secrets which can make you shudder when there is an eerie silence and fog envelopes the ruins. The castle was used as a prison during World War II. When the cool breeze blows through the walls a mystical atmosphere is created and one can almost imagine the flames of the fire in the Venus temple rising high and guiding sailors navigating the Mediterranean Sea. It is indeed a place of contrasts. There is a tower called the Balio Tower. The castle is situated on the jagged edge of the mountain peak and it almost looks as if the castle is coming out of the rocks. Castello de Venere or Venus Castle gives you such beautiful views that make you think it is worth the climb. Watching the sunset and the sky turn to a myriad of colours is a beautiful site in many parts of the world and Erice offers really stunning sunsets worthy of being captured for posterity through paintings or photographs.
Balio Gardens
The Balio Gardens are situated around the castle and the Balio Tower. It is beautiful to see the verdant greenery amidst the grey and white castle walls. It offers a beautiful view of rugged turrets, wooded hillsides, the saltpans and the sea.
Cordici Civic Museum
The Cordici Civic Museum in Erice is situated on the Piazza Umberto. This museum is housed in the Town Hall. It is named after a local historian and scholar Antonio Cordici.
The Cordici Civic Museum has several interesting archaeological discoveries and artifacts dating from the Phoenician and Carthagian period including its Punic collection. There are also many pieces of art from its Greek and Roman periods. The collections include an elegant head of Aphrodite dating to 4 BC. It also houses an interesting relief of the Annunciation by Antonello Gagini. This relief dates back to 1525. The collections also include several gold ornaments church vestments and embroidered garments.
EMFCSC or the Ettore Majorana Foundation and Centre for Scientific Culture
Situated on Via Guarnotta in Erice, Sicily the EMFCSC is named after the famous Italian physicist Ettore Majorana who was born in Sicily. Professor Antonino Zichichi is the President.
Having 188 schools dealing with every branch of science the Ettore Majorana Foundation and Centre for Scientific Culture is located in the medieval town of Erice and is housed in three ancient monasteries. Each monastery has been renamed after a famous scientist and supporter of EMFCSC.
The Eugene P. Wigner Institute is situated in the San Francesco Monastery and has the famous Enrico Fermi Lecture Hall. The San Domenico Monastery has been renamed as the Patrick M.S. Blackett. In this building there is the lecture hall named after Paul A. Dirac. The San Rocco Monastery houses the Directorate and the main Secretariat of EFMCSC. It has been renamed as Isidor I. Rabi Institute and has the famous Richard P. Feynman Lecture Hall.
The spirit of Erice is the main factor which distinguishes it from other famous scientific institutions. All participants whether students or docents come to learn. They are offered no formal certificates and degrees. Yet EFMCSC attracts the best of the intelligentsia from all over the world whether they are doctors, lawyers, scientists, astronomers, chemists or other professionals. Many great scientific ideas which have lead to their scientists being awarded Nobel Prizes have germinated at the Institute.
The Ettore Majorana Foundation and Centre for Scientific Culture or EFMCSC is an example of the role Science can and must play to confront and resolve the major problems facing the earth today.
Churches
There are many small and big churches in Erice. They are around sixty churches in Erice though some are in ruins and are no longer used for worship. Some of the more visited ones include
Chiesa Matrice
This is the main church in Erice. It is situated near the Trapani gate at the entrance of the town. Built in the fourteenth century using stones from the Temple of Venus, Chiesa Matrice is massive and its walls are like a fortress. It has a beautiful façade with rose windows partly covered by the Gothic porch added one century later. It has a lovely marble altarpiece dating way back to the renaissance. This church is consecrated to the Virgin Mary.
The church has a beautiful fresco dating back to the fifteenth century. As the years advanced more treasures including baroque style altars and a beautiful seventeenth century silver statue depicting Saint Padua have been added to the treasures in the church. This main church of Erice in a way encompasses the entire spirit of the city as it represents the past, present and future in a nutshell.
In the church compound there is a Bell tower cum Watch Tower built in two levels. The upper level has two beautiful windows in Chiaramonte style with Ghibellina merlons on the top.
Church of Saint John
Although this church has been renovated it still has retained parts of its medieval structure especially in its exterior.
Chiesa di San Martino
The Chiesa di San Martino or Saint Martin’s Church is situated on Via Albertina degli Abati. It has a beautiful carved wooden choir. It has been renovated and refurbished in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.
Church of Saint Ursula
This church was originally built in the fifteenth century. It has gothic influences which are still visible to date. There is a beautiful vaulted ceiling showcasing the beauty of medieval craftsmanship. The artifacts from the church are taken out in a solemn procession annually on Good Friday.
Views
Erice offers breathtaking views on clear days. Even on foggy days there are a wide range of panoramic views to delight your senses. The views from uphill are spectacular. One can see magnificent views of Monte Coffin and Trapani. On a clear day you can see all the way to Tunisia. There is also a beautiful ride using a cable car if you wish.
Food and drink
Food and drink are an important recreational activity in Erice. Couscous the famous Arabian dish is an integral part of the menu offered in almost all the restaurants. There are also a wide variety of fish dishes available. In many restaurants in Erice couscous with fish is a popular combination. Since the sea is close there is always an extensive variety of fresh seafood including swordfish, tuna and calamari available in the local restaurants.
Erice is also famous for its confectionary. The famous almond sweets including marzipan are much sought after and very popular. There are lots of pastry shops where you can pick up almond delights. One of the larger and popular ones is called La Pasticceria di Maria Grammatical which offers a wide selection of marzipan fruits and vegetables especially prickly pears. There are also many types of almond and chocolate cookies and biscuits finely crafted form ancient recipes developed by the nuns living in the erstwhile monasteries in the region.
Shopping
The cobbled streets of Erice are home to many artisans. There are many small shops selling ceramics and exquisite hand made carpets and rugs. You can also pick up exquisite coral jewellry.
Festivals
Erice hosts an international Week of Medieval and Renaissance Music every summer. This famous event attracts lots of tourists, music lovers, talented performers and music afficionados from all over the world. There is a special procession taken out every Easter.
Erice is a beautiful city to visit for a holiday and offers culture, food, places to visit and to enjoy delicious Italian/Sicilian food.